Chloé AW22 (main picture)
For the Chloé Autumn-Winter 2022 collection, Creative Director Gabriela Hearst focuses on a specific climate solution, known as Rewilding, in tandem with her creative flair. This progressive approach to conservation centres on allowing nature to take care of itself, by enabling natural processes to repair damaged ecosystems and restore degraded landscapes.
So, the collection depicts landscapes as climate catastrophes (forest fires, melting glaciers, droughts) contrasted with landscapes visualised as climate successes. These images are depicted on clothing in prints and intarsia knits in recycled cashmere, and hand-painted onto accessories. The Climate Success range is in aid of the Indigenous Women Fellowship program launched by Conservation International 1, which supports Indigenous women’s autonomy and leadership in securing the conservation of their territories and forests across the Amazon.
Cecilie Bahnsen AW22
Cecilie Bahnsen stunned with her AW22 collection, her first showing at Paris Fashion Week, away from her usual stomping ground of Copenhagen. We saw her structural and romantic silhouettes against the backdrop of the Palais de Tokyo, inspired by Tove Ditlevsens “Night Wandering”, transcending the real and the unreal.
When 16th century high fashion meets 21st century high tech. For her Dior AW22 collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri chose a backdrop of The Next Era, a gallery of paintings signed Mariella Bettineschi and composed of large female portraits borrowed from the history of painting from the 16th to the 19th century.
Corsets and flowing gowns are re-constructed for the woman of today, a beautiful exploration of past, present and future. The iconic Bar jacket is reinvented and dressed with technically innovative inserts created by the Italian start-up D-Air lab. Skirts are reimagined thanks to fabrics borrowed from the men’s wardrobe, embroidery adorns technical knitwear, waterproof materials, nylon and cashmere. A nod to the house’s codes, but with a touch of rebellion.
It was an emotional start to Paris Fashion Week last night, with Off-White’s runway show presenting the late Virgil Abloh‘s final collection for the label, after his sudden passing in November.
Celebrities including Rihanna, Serena Williams, Cindy Crawford and Naomi Campbell either watched or walked the show, which, despite the tragic circumstances, was more a celebration of Virgil’s talent than a tribute.
The collection, 𝚂𝚙𝚊𝚌𝚎𝚜𝚑𝚒𝚙 𝙴𝚊𝚛𝚝𝚑: 𝚊𝚗 “𝙸𝚖𝚊𝚐𝚒𝚗𝚊𝚛𝚢 𝙴𝚡𝚙𝚎𝚛𝚒𝚎𝚗𝚌𝚎”, was teased as a ‘cultural reinterpretation, disruption and transformation open the door to future dialogues and formats. No expectations, no stereotypes, no status quo’.
It was a showcase of Virgil’s AW22 collection, which featured his signature flare for mixing high and low items such as oversized hoodies, sequin tops, tailoring and tongue-in-cheek t-shirts and logos, as well as unexpected accessories, this time a riding hat.
But it was also the opportunity to to introduce his latest project, a couture fashion line without the pretentiousness of haute couture. He sadly didn’t get to finish it, so it was completed by his team and collaborators.
Naomi walked in crushed velvet skirt and a top made of necklaces, while Cindy showcased a tulle skirt and a bag emblazoned with ‘More Life’, perhaps a nod to Virgil’s health struggles, and Bella Hadid showed off a puff-sleeved wedding dress.
It’ll be a difficult show to follow for sure, though we’re excited to see what the likes of Dior, Chanel and Valentino have to offer. Keep scrolling for the best runway looks the AW22 collections shown at Paris Fashion Week, and here’s a recap of New York Fashion Week, London and Milan Fashion Week in case you missed them.